removed extra files. updated readme

assembly.md

@@ -1,20 +0,0 @@
-- Get a convection toaster oven. Nothing fancy, it just has a fan inside for more even heating. Never use this oven for food.
-  - [BLACK+DECKER TO3250XSB 8-Slice Extra Wide Convection Countertop Toaster Oven, Includes Bake Pan, Broil Rack & Toasting Rack, Stainless Steel/Black](https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-TO3250XSB-Convection-Countertop/dp/B00LU2I428)
-- Get a thermocouple thermometer. Make sure the probe and probe jacket can go to ~300C
-  - [Digital Thermocouple Temperature Thermometer, PEAKMETER PM6501 K Type LCD Thermometer Testing Tool Celsius and Fahrenheit](https://www.amazon.com/Thermocouple-Temperature-Thermometer-PEAKMETER-Fahrenheit/dp/B08L11MMFM)
-- Use Sn63/Pb37 no-clean, leaded, solder paste. Keep it in the refrigerator so it's nice and cold before you stencil it. (obvs don't get it near your food). Wash your hands well after.
-  - [Chip Quik SMD291AX50T3 Solder Paste in jar 50g (T3) Sn63/Pb37 no clean](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BH5LP5G)
-- Take your time to get the paste stenciled right. Don't be afraid to wipe it off with IPA and try again. The paste stencils better when it's cold.
-- Use tweezers to put all of the parts on the pasted board. I like the curved Aven Technik 7-SA Tweezers. I have also been known to wear a dorky magnifier headset.
-  - [Aven 18072ARS 7-SA Style Artis Tweezer, Black with Yellow Print](https://www.amazon.com/Aven-18072ARS-Style-Tweezer-Yellow/dp/B01D4R1OXW)
-  - [Headband Magnifier Hands Free Jeweler Loupe Head Mount Magnifying Headset Visor Double Optical Glass 4 Replaceable Lenses for Reading,Repair(1.5X,2.0X,2.5X,3.5X)](https://www.amazon.com/Headband-Magnifier-Jeweler-Magnifying-Replaceable/dp/B08RYVH7DL)
-- Put the board(s) in the toaster oven. I usually put them right on the wire rack, which is in the metal tray.
-- Put the thermocouple inside the toaster oven. Close the door on the thermocouple wire so that it holds the end right above the PCB, inside the oven.
-- Turn the oven on convection bake, medium setting. The convection fan in the toaster oven helps keep the temperature even through out the inside of the oven.
-- Once the temp (as read off the thermocouple thermometer) gets to 140C, turn down the oven heat and try and keep it at 140-150C for 2 minutes. Open the door a little if it's getting to hot. This is the "Soak" phase
-- After two minutes, turn the heat to high
-- Once the temp reaches 200C start a timer for 30 seconds. Keep the temp between 200 and 220C for this phase. Usually you don't need to do anything. This is the "Reflow" phase. You should see all of the paste melt.
-- After 30 seconds, turn off the toaster oven. open the door.
-- Let the boards cool for a bit in the oven with the door open.
-- Once cool to touch, inspect the boards with a microscope for dry pads and/or bridges. Depending on how well you did with stenciling there may be a few, especially on QFP packages. QFNs sometimes too. Fix these up with paste flux, solder braid and your soldering iron.
-- If you have parts on both sides of the board, it's fine to just repeat the steps on the second side. The surface tension of the solder almost always keeps the parts from falling off while they are getting reflowed upside down. When you reflow the second side, make a little stand out of metal to keep the bottom side parts off the wire rack in the toaster oven.

axeTester.kicad_pcb

@@ -10413,6 +10413,18 @@
 		(layer "User.2")
 		(uuid "c35d4274-f8df-41d3-8ff7-53386a270df9")
 	)
+	(gr_text "axeTester v1"
+		(at 112.4 149.62 0)
+		(layer "B.SilkS")
+		(uuid "2c52f320-592c-470f-9399-38460fbcd5c7")
+		(effects
+			(font
+				(size 1 1)
+				(thickness 0.15)
+			)
+			(justify left bottom mirror)
+		)
+	)
 	(segment
 		(start 136.928 57.528)
 		(end 139.2506 59.8506)

building.md

@@ -1,54 +0,0 @@
-# Building PCBs
-
-In order to get PCBs made, you usually need to provide them with the following files;
-
-- Gerbers
-- Drill Files
-
-Additionally if you want to have a shop assemble the boards for you, you’ll also need to provide;
-
-- Bill of Materials (BOM)
-- Centroid file (XY)
-
-### Generating Gerbers and Drill Files
-
-Gerbers are a set of files in a standard format that allow a PCB manufacturer to build the PCB. Usually there is one gerber file for each layer of a PCB. A Gerber file can represent a wide variety of different layer types;
-
-- Copper layer
-- Silkscreen Layer
-- Soldermask layer
-- Board outline
-- Drills (Okay, this is actually not a gerber, but your PCB house will definitely need it)
-
-Any* PCB CAD software will allow you to generate gerbers. We use [KiCad](https://www.kicad.org) because it is open source, free, and *awesome*. Here is how to generate gerbers in KiCad v6;
-
-1. Open up the design in KiCad and switch to the PCB board editor view (ie not the schematic). Some people call this pcbnew.
-2. Choose File → Fabrication Outputs → Gerbers (.gbr)…
-3. Pick the right options for what your PCB board house expects. Here is what I use;
-
-![Gerber Plot Window](doc/gerbers.png)
-
-Make sure you have these “Include Layers” checked;
-
-- **F.Cu** → Front copper
-- **In1.Cu** → Inner layer 1 Copper
-- **In2.Cu** → Inner layer 2 Copper
-- **B.Cu** → Back copper
-- **F.Paste** → Front Paste. Note: this is used to make a solder paste stencil. This is optional. Many PCB houses will let you order stencils as a separate step. use these gerbers for ordering a stencil
-- **B.Paste** → Back paste. see note above
-- **F.Silkscreen** → Front Silkscreen. sometimes this is called the Legend
-- **B.Silkscreen** → Back Silkscreen. sometimes this is called the Legend of Zelda
-- **F.Mask** → Front soldermask
-- **B.Mask** → Back soldermask
-- **Edge.Cuts** → The board outline. This defines the shape the PCB is cut to.
-
-1. Next you’ll want to generate the drill files. Click that button in the lower right corner of the “Plot” screen from above.
-2. Generate the drill files according to your PCB house specs. Here are the options I use;
-
-![Drill Files Window](doc/drill.png)
-
-That’s it! Take all of those generated files and give them to your PCB house. If you’re ordering stencils (which you should!), pull out `-F_Paste.gbr` and `-B_Paste.gbr` and send those to the right place. Paste gerbers are not needed to manufacture a PCB.
-
-### Generating PCBA Manufacturing files
-
-- TBD

readme.md

@@ -1,66 +1,9 @@
 ```
 Open Source is Intrinsic to Bitcoin
 ```
-# The bitaxeSupra
-bitaxe is a fully open source hardware Bitcoin ASIC miner. Supra is the 4th major revision of the bitaxe that now includes the BM1368 ASIC from the Antminer S21
+# The axeTester
+The axeTester is a bed-of-nails style pogo pin tester for bitaxe builders.
 
-![bitaxeUltra assembled](doc/supra_render.png)
-
-## Goals
-- **Standalone**: can mine directly to your pool over WiFi. No External computer needed.
-- **Embedded**: low cost, low maintenance, high availability, high reliability, low power.
-- **ASIC**: based on the very, very efficient BM1366 from Bitmain.
-- **Versatile**: solo/pool mining, autotune power/heat/efficiency.
-- **Open Source**: All design files are provided.
-
-## Features
-- **ESP32-S3-WROOM-1** wifi microcontroller on board
-- **TI TPS40305** buck regulator steps down the 5V input to power the BM1366
-- **Maxim DS4432U+** current DAC digitally adjusts the BM1368 core voltage from 0.04V to 2.4V
-- **TI INA260** power meter measures the input voltage and current of the miner
-- **Microchip EMC2101** PWM controls the fan and monitors tach output. BM1366 doesn't support die temp, but we have it placed super close to the ASIC so we can use the internal temp feature.
-- 0.91" **SSD1306 OLED** I2C Display Module 
-
-## BM1368
-- The BM1368 is a undocumented SHA256 mining ASIC from Bitmain. It's used in the Antminer S21
-- Bitmain claims the BM1368 has 17.5 J/TH efficiency
-- The BM1368 is brand new and isn't available anywhere yet.
-- The BM1368 has a different footprint and pinout from the BM1366, BM1397 and BM1387 in previous bitaxe.
-
-## Current Status
-- Bitaxe Supra 400 parts and PCBs has been ordered, but nothing has been verified
-- Be sure to check the [issues](https://github.com/skot/bitaxe/issues) for known bugs, reworks and errata.
-- This is an _advanced_ build! You can do it, but if you're not looking for a project, it might be best to buy one pre-assembled from one of the many sellers.
-
-## Hardware
-- Order PCBs from your favorite PCB shop, like [JLCPCB](https://jlcpcb.com), [SeeedStudio](https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html), or [PCBWay](https://www.pcbway.com)
-    - Gerbers are in the `Manufacturing Files` dir. PCBs are 4-layer, 6mil trace/space and 0.3mm hole compatible. 1oz outer / 0.5oz inner layer thickness works well.
-    - Make sure to order stencils too. These are the "paste" layers in the gerbers folder. one for top and one for bottom.
-- All PCB parts except the ASIC are available from [DigiKey](https://www.digikey.com/en/products) and others. You can find Digikey part numbers on the DK tab of the BOM
-- [40x40mm heatsink and 5V fan](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832861666365.html) from a random AliExpress seller. The fans are crap, but the heatsinks are good. **make sure** to use a good quality thermal compound between the heatsink and ASIC!
-- Upgrade your fan with the [Noctua NF-A4x10](https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-5v-pwm) 5V 4-Pin fan for a much more pleasant experience.
-- Supports 0.91" SSD1306-based I2C OLED Module. [Example Amazon seller](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZY4YBHL)
-- [KiCad 7](https://www.kicad.org) design files
-
-## Software
-- The [ESP-Miner](https://github.com/skot/ESP-Miner) has not yet been modified to support the BM1368. Hopefully soon!
-
-## Cooling
-- You **must** have active cooling on the bitaxe. 
-- The Bitaxe has a connector for a 5V fan. 40x40mm fans work nicely with the suggested heatsink
-- The fan connector uses the 4-pin standard:
-	- 2 pins are for 5V power
-	- pin 3 is fan speed sensing
-	- pin 4 is fan speed control (PWM) 
-
-## Power Supply Requirements
-- **5V DC Only!** Anything else will damage the Bitaxe. Be careful and double-check your power supply is 5V. Many other voltage power supplies use the same connector.
-- [5VDC Power supply](https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Plastic-Adapter-Transformer-WS2812B/dp/B01D8FM4N4). Should be capable of over 15W
-- The bitaxe uses a 5.5x2.5mm, center-positive barrel jack.
-
-### ESP32 Programming Requirements
-- As of the bitaxeUltra, all ESP32 programming is done through a USB-C cable and connector on the bitaxe. See [ESP-Miner](https://github.com/skot/ESP-Miner) for more details.
-
-## Building
-- Check out [building.md](building.md) for PCB ordering tips
-- Check out [assembly.md](assembly.md) for assembly tips
+- 2.1mm power jack for powering the bitaxe under test.
+- 6 pin header for attaching to the esp-prog programmer
+- 13 and 15 pin headers for accessing all of the bitaxe test pads